Mit dem Transrapid durch Shanghai

Es war ein aufregendes Kribbeln im Bauch: 380, 400 , 415 - der Wagen zitterte und schlingerte. Die Passagiere starrten gebannt auf die Geschwindigkeitsanzeige. 420 , 425, 430 - bei 431 km/h blieb die Anzeige konstant. Ein irres Gefühl, im Zug mit 431 km/h durch China zu "fliegen". Möglich macht es die Zukunft im Heute - der Transrapid in Shanghai…

Shanghai_026 Besonders glücklich hatte unser Shanghaibesuch nicht begonnen. Die Erwartungen waren sehr hoch gewesen und am Morgen regnete es in Strömen. Wir starteten um 7.20 Uhr von der Amadea aus. Wir waren müde, die Scheiben im Bus waren beschlagen, so dass wir nichts sehen konnten und wir froren. Schöner Mist!

Auch unser erster Stopp entsprach nicht dem, womit ich Shanghai verband: Ein buddhistischer Tempel, der zum Freitag überfüllt, laut und da im Freien, nass war. Louisa und ich suchten eine Art Cáfe, um uns aufzuwärmen. Dort nahmen sie weder Dollar noch Kreditkarte. Weil wir sicher sehr unglücklich aussahen, gab uns der chinesische Chef wenigstens ein heißes Wasser, um die Shanghai_038 Hände am Glas aufzuwärmen.

Der Regen wurde schlimmer, als wir eine Stunde Stopp und Go durch die Stadt fuhren,Shanghai_047  die aufgrund der Scheiben für uns im Nebel lag. Louisa hatte schlechte Laune, ich auch. Nach dem Transrapid wollten wir zum Hafen zurück fahren.

Shanghai_058Doch der Transrapid brachte im wahrsten Sinn des Wortes Schwung in unsere Laune. Eine moderne Station, saubere und blitzblanke Bahnsteige, chinesische Geschäftsleute mit Koffern auf dem Weg zum Flughafen und dann kam er elegant herein geschwebt - der berühmte Transrapid. In nur 22 Monaten haben die Firmen Thyssen-Krupp, Siemens und eine chinesische Shanghai_074Firma die 31Shanghai_054  Kilometer lange Strecke zwischen der Station Longyang und dem Flughafen Pudong gebaut. Seit 2004 fahren die Chinesen und Touristen nun für umgerechnet 5 Euro in sage und schreibe sieben Minuten den ganzen Weg. Wir fahren hin und weil es so schön war, gleich noch einmal zurück. Ein tolles Gefühl. Elektrisierend und pushend.

Als wir aussteigen ist es, als ob wir nicht an der gleichen Stelle, sondern in einer anderen Stadt gelandet sind. Der Regen hat nachgelassen, auf der Fahrt sehen wir endlich die modernen Hochhäuser und fühlen Shanghai_080langsam das Pulsieren der Metropole. Leise noch, aber es wird. Shanghai_084

Als nächste führt uns der Plan der vom Schiff organisierten "Großen Stadtrundfahrt" zu einem chinesischen Mittagessen und in eine Seidenspinnerei. Nun, dazu muss man nicht nach Shanghai fahren.  Für Louisa ist es recht lehrreich, sieht sie doch die Seidenraupen und die Shanghai_093Arbeiterinnen, die aus den gekochten Cocoons die Fäden heraus ziehen. Da Shanghai_100ich kein Freund von kitschigen Souvenirs bin, nutze ich die Chance und kaufe Bettwäsche aus chinesischer Seide. Teuer, aber wie meine Oma  sagen würde "etwas im Ganzen".

Auf dem Weg zum Bund, der bekanntesten Uferpromenade Asiens, klart das Wetter auf und wir beginnen zu staunen: Wow, was für eine riesige Stadt, was für riesige Hochhäuser, was für Straßen über-, unter- und nebeneinander. Wir fahren über die Nanpu-Brücke und werfen einen Blick auf das 5 qkm große Gebiet bis zur Lupu-Brücke, wo 2010 die Expo stattfinden wird. Schon heute ist die Stadt dabei, die ehrgeizigen Pläne umzusetzen. Gerade werden 10.000 Menschen aus dem Gebiet umgesiedelt, müssen 2000 Firmen neue Büro- und Fabrikgebäude finden. Denn die Fläche am Huangpu wird Zentrum eines Architekturrausches werden. Acht internationale Architekturbüros werden hier das Wort Design neu definieren.

Shanghai_120Das scheinen sie bei den 3000 Hochhäusern in Shanghai, die übrigens alle in den letzten fünfzehn Jahren entstanden sind, schon ausprobiert zu haben. Ich kenne New York, habe Tokio gesehen und Städte wie Sydney oder Hongkong. Aber was die Chinesen hier in Shanghai aufgebaut haben, ist schon mehr als eine ernstzunehmende Konkurrenz für die Metropolen dieser Welt. In meinen Augen hat Shanghai, zumindest im architektonischen Design und in der Skyline, die meisten Weltmetropolen bereits überholt. Es gibt Hochhäuser mit eckigen Öffnungen, Löchern, Kuppel, Türmchen, Skywalks, Zwillingstürmen, Hochhäuser auf mehreren Ebenen, mit Stahlaufbauten, Shanghai_179 Schüsseln, scheinbar außerirdischen Elementen, glitzerndem Metall, Gold, grellen Farben. Alles. Es gibt einfach alles. So stelle ich mir die Städte in der Zukunft vor.

Shanghai_180 Als das New York des 21. Jahrhunderts wird Shanghai bezeichnet. Und das 1,3 Milliarden Menschen reiche China setzt hier Superlative: Mit 492m gehört das Shanghai World Financial Center zu den höchsten der Welt, ist der größte Tiefseehafen Asiens im Entstehen, wurde die anspruchvollste Formel 1 - Strecke der Welt vor zwei Jahren eröffnet und mit den schon erwähnten Projekten wie der Expo und dem Transrapid zeigt das Land, welches Potential es hat. Mehr als 17,5 Millionen Menschen leben in Shanghai. Der Flughafen wird gerade erweitert und hier sollen 60 Millionen Passagiere im Jahr begrüßt oder verabschiedet werden. Gigantismus!

Shanghai_140 Am Bund (kommt aus dem Indischen und bedeutet Flussufer), geraten wir langsam in  einen Shanghai-Rausch. Von dieser eindrucksvollen Uferpromenade aus haben wir den Blick auf die Skyline von Shanghai mit dem Fernsehturm, der wie ein Raumschiff auf Shanghai_151drei Beinen steht und den Gebäuden des Finanz- und Wirtschaftszentrums.

Es sind viele Leute unterwegs auf dem Bund und immer wieder werden Louisa und ich gebeten, für Fotos zu posieren. Das ging uns in ganz Asien so. Hätten wir für jedes Fot einen Dollar genommen, Shanghai_153wäre die Anschubfinanzierung für die nächste Weltreise schon fast rein…

Nach dem Bund führt unser Weg in die Altstadt, die innerhalb der ehemaligen Stadtmauern Shanghai_177 von 1911 mit engen Gassen, Geschäften, Laternen und Souvenirständen gefüllt ist. Doch ich habe keine Geduld mehr für die Reisegruppe und muss meinem Großstadtrausch nachgeben. Euphorisch fahren wir ins Zentrum und lShanghai_181 assen uns endlich mit dem Strom der Menschen treiben. Modernste Hotels, Mega-Einkaufspassagen, helle Neonreklame, schicke Menschen, verschiedene Sprachen und Louisa mit ihrem coolen Englischen Satz: "No, she has no money!" Über den müssen sogar die aufdringlichen Straßenhändler lachen, Shanghai_196die uns blinkende Rollschuhe und funkgesteuerte Hubschrauber verkaufen wollen. Selbst die Händler sind offensichtlich der Dynamik der Stadt erlegen.

Wenn das Schiff doch nur über Nacht bleiben würde… Aber wir müssen zurück. Auslaufzeit: 22 Uhr. Völlig euphorisch erzähle ich einem Freund auf dem Schiff ohne Shanghai_197 Komma und Pause von dieser Stadt. Irgendwie muss ich etwas von der Energie wieder abgeben, die von Shanghai auf mich übergegangen ist. Aber schonShanghai_200 beim Kaffee in der Harry´s Bar merke ich, dass man Shanghai einfach nicht beschreiben kann. Man muss es gesehen haben.

Die Auslaufparty an Deck mit Glühwein, in der Gesellschaft meiner Freunde und vorbei  an den Lichtern dieser Mega - Skyline wird mir für immer im Gedächtnis bleiben.

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